Have you ever felt that your skin is tight and dry after cleansing? Or you need to apply your moisturizer twice a day because your skin feels dry? If so, these are indications of the ‘wash-out’ effect of emulsifiers. Emulsifiers , glycerin, and gums can impair your trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and lipid (oil) dryness. These ingredients are in 99% of formulas in cosmetic and haircare roducts. Their use is largely unregulated and considered an easy and inexpensive way of combining the oil and water phases of a cream or lotion, so that they don’t separate.
Most conventional emulsifiers and gums have higher irritant properties, especially when combined with parabens, fragrance, artificial colors, and preservatives. This can cause irritation/inflammation, especially if you have sensitive, blemish-prone or rosacea skin. Also, several popular emulsifiers and gums have a fishy smell so a synthetic fragrance is often added to mask it. This not only goes for skincare, shampoos and conditioners are full of emulsifiers. A few examples of conventional emulsifiers are: glycerin, polysorbates, laureth-4, Cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, potassium cetyl sulfate, cellulose, polyglycerol esters, guar gum, xanthan gum, carrageean gum, and more.
Shampoos have never worked the way they are supposed to for me. Often my hair and scalp feels more grimy with build up after I use a conventional shampoo. I am also highly allergic to synthetic fragrance and it is rare to come across any haircare truly 100% fragrance free. Without the fragrance, the the fish-like odor of the emulsifiers is potent. I realized that the sticky residue that would be left behind to weigh down my hair was the glycerin and other emulsifiers and gums. I think some hair types do not have the same issues but if you have had a similar experience where you feel like there is a weird build up on your hair or your scalp is constantly throbbing, try anemulsifier and gum free formula.
how emulsifiers + gums act like a glue
so what are the risks of emulsifiers + gums?
the ‘wash-out effect’
Over time, these types of changes in our skin, scalp,and gut microbiomes can trigger faulty immune system responses that increase the risk of dermatitis and rosacea, and for the gut – inflammatory bowel diseases (IBD) like Crohn’s disease and ulcerative colitis. That’s in part because emulsifiers can reduce the quantity and thickness of protective outer layer of our skin and scalp as well as the protective mucus in our gut tissue, diminishing the integrity of the outer protective barrier, enhancing pathogen mobility and contributing to inflammation.
- The toxic properties of emulsifiers vary by type and can be very irritating to the skin, even more than fragrance or preservatives;
- Besides, most skin care, even shampoos, body washes, dishwashing liquids and toothpaste contain irritating emulsifiers because of the excellent cleaning properties and high foaming potential.
- Skin tolerance of these ingredients may vary.
- Emulsifiers do not lose their emulsifying abilities in the skin, so they give your skin a wash-out effect (washing out the good), especially when your skin comes in contact with water.
- Emulsifiers alter and lower the ability of our skin barrier to defend itself against outside elements.
The combination of fragile skin and chemicals will aggravate skin disorders. Barrier-disordered skin problems, such as dermatitis, psoriasis or rosacea do not tolerate conventional creams. Your skin will show a negative visual appearance, creating inflammation in ways like itchiness, redness and heat.
corneotherapy = emulsifier + gum free
Once you lose your first line of skin barrier’s defense from the creams and shampoos with chemical emulsifiers, many products will just aggravate your skin. There is a new approach to promote healing called Corneotherapy, and it avoids the conventional additives like emulsifiers, perfumes, mineral oils, silicones, synthetic dyes, and amines. I am thrilled to have found and be associated with this highly advanced and caring skin therapy. I am excited to share this with as many as I can so we can all have a beautiful glowing complexion and healthy hair.
If you have particularly reactive or damaged skin or scalp or both, consider products with no emulsifiers or those using natural alternatives. As always, what works best can vary from person to person, so pay attention to how your skin responds to different products and their ingredients. Many creams and shampoos will aggravate skin that has lost the first lines of skin barrier defence, and consequently, there is a growing market for emulsifier-free formulas.
It is still rare to find formulations that do not contain conventional emulsifiers. Instead of emulsifiers, these creams contain membrane components with a physical structure comparable to the barrier layers of the skin. Instead, they contain physiological lipids that mirror the lipid component of the skin such as ceramides, phospholipids, EFA’s and phosphatidylcholine.
how emulsifiers + gums disturb the skin + scalp + gut microbiome
Many skin treatment therapists are also unaware that emulsifiers do not lose their emulsifying properties in the skin and have been found to have higher irritant properties than fragrance or preservatives. This is because emulsifiers are proving to cause a modification of the stratum corneum multilamellar lipid structure (Bilayers) and consequently the skin barrier defences. Despite this, their use is largely unregulated and is considered an easy and inexpensive way of combining the oil and water phases of an emulsion. Note that cost is the prime directive.
Emulsifiers in foods like salad dressing help improve texture and consistency, but some research links them to inflammation and gut issues. When is the last time you enjoyed a bite of carrageenan or polysorbate 80? The answer might be today if you’ve had a slice of bread, a glass of non-dairy milk, or a salad made with bottled dressing. The problem is, they might mess with your gut health. A growing body of evidence suggests that emulsifiers in food could disrupt the microbiome and increase intestinal inflammation, which could have far-reaching health effects.
the risk to our gut health
the answer
All preventative treatments should aim to maintain the skin barrier in its best possible natural and intact condition. This can only be achieved with external agents that are able to repair the natural barrier and will not impair the regeneration from within. So it is obvious to use agents similar to those the body uses itself. ‘Mimic’ is the term often used. The analysis will show that disordered skin decreases significantly, and skin lipid level and hydration increase after application of skincare and haircare that is 100% free of emulsifiers and gums. This is an exciting time to be in the the beaauty and wellness industry; with many changes now being made to render those old formulations a thing of the past.
healthy alternatives to emulsifiers + gums to look for in your skincare + haircare
yucca root
aloe vera
maple syrup
coconut blossom
shea butter
phosphatidylcholine
