I have been working with some new clients in 2021 and they have inspired me to write this post. Even as a makeup artist I find makeup a little daunting when I watch other people do it with so many different brushes, products, shades, and steps. I do not have one set list of rules or steps when it comes to my line because different products and steps work for different people. You will often find that as you evolve as your own ‘makeup artist’ and experiment, you are always tweaking and changing things a little. I think you should do just that. Keep things interesting. Always have fun with your makeup. I have some helpful tips that I learned when doing really quick makeup touch-ups for clients in spas. In this post I am focusing on makeup tips for the 40+ woman as they really work for all ages.
I wish I was one of those people who was comfortable creating videos. I have so much respect for those who do. I have watched a lot of makeup transformations lately on TikTok. I find them very entertaining and inspiring. It is like watching a young Picasso starting with a blank canvas. The ‘after’ can be quite startling, sometimes bearing no resemblance to the person in the ‘before’. That is the magic of makeup, practice, the right lighting, and filters. More often than not though, the artist is wanting to create perfect-looking skin and the trade-off is that you see no freckle, no sign of life. I am all for these transformations. However, I also love diversity when it comes to makeup. I have scrolled through Tik Tok pages looking for more ‘natural makeovers’ by those same influencer artists and others and I am not really finding anything. I am not sure what that means.
stressed out skin
Part of me sees the young influencer as my little sister or daughter. I want to give them a big hug (because of all the online bullies), help them replace their synthetic makeup with natural alternatives, and help them get to the bottom of why they are having such bad breakouts so they have one less thing to worry about. But it is not just the younger generation I am seeing with more acne and dermatitis. It is women of all ages. I am just a makeup chef observing this so this is only my personal opinion but I think a lot of it has to do with more food and environmental allergies, products that are toxic irritants, and wearing masks. As usual it is also stress and poor sleep. In short, it’s complicated.
I had very painful breakouts as a teenager and well into my twenties so I know it is a journey. My friend in college said her acne kept her humble. I was never that accepting of my skin problems. I felt that my body was trying to tell me something and it was not good news. I do not think cystic acne is something anyone should have to go through, not as a teenager and not as an adult. It affects one psychologically. I saw one client who was in her late 70’s and had cystic acne. She came to me with a good sense of humour about it but she was frustrated about the ‘advice’ she was receiving from everyone. I remember that too. A family friend had sold her skincare from a home based company she worked for that was specifically marketed to those suffering from cystic acne. When we are not well or our skin is not well, we are in a vulnerable state. I do not like how some companies prey on those who are feeling panicky and willing to try anything. My client had pulled out her ipad and done some research though. She said she had decided against continuing using it because it was so potent with chemicals that it had removed her nail polish.
It is important to be realistic when it comes to how much time you are willing to invest in your skincare and makeup application on an average day. My tips in this post are for a makeup application that is natural but polished, and under 20 minutes. If you use my caramel tan or custom cacao tan, please have a look at my instagram post explaining how it can be used as part of your foundation.
CLEANSING/EXFOLIATING/HYDRATING
I find the best cleansers for mature skin are sls-free. I recommend my GLACIAL CLAY CLEANSER if you feel you need a soft microdermabrasion, or if you prefer a plant oil based bar soap, I now have those too! Follow with my raspberry elixir, coconut cream moisturizer, or both if you need extra hydration.
CUSTOM COVERAGE
The focal point for me when aiming to achieve a healthy makeup look is texture. You are a human being, with beautiful flaws which make you unique. Your skin should not look perfect, just pretty. Do not assume that because you are applying your makeup, that you need to apply your foundation from the top of your forehead to your jawline or beyond. I try to apply as little makeup to the forehead as possible to avoid that cakey look, only spot covering areas that need evening out. If you have sun spots or hyperpigmentation I recommend starting with the coconut bb cream as an all over brightener. Then take a step back from the mirror and analyze the areas that need a little more evening out. You can spot-build it in areas where you need a little more brightening. It is only medium coverage so if you are covering breakouts, melasma or hyperpigmentation, you will want to spot cover those areas with mango bb balm, concealing HDD, or dewy HDD. Then follow with a light application of bio-foundation to smooth the tackiness of the moisturizers and creams. I like to sprinkle a few granules in my left palm and then press and blend into skin. Any leftovers can be gently scraped back into your container so you have literally no waste and no product getting stuck up in the brush. This formula is antimicrobial, antibacterial, and antifungal so there is no shelf life and the living clay blend is cleansing and speeds the healing of breakouts and wounds.
EYE BRIGHTENING
‘Less is more’ is especially important around the eye area as too much product will create a crepey or cakey look on the delicate skin around the eyes and can sink into fine lines. I prefer tapping the brightener and concealing HDD onto the skin with my finger so that I have more control of how much product is applied. With a brush it is easy to apply too much product. If you find even a little product is looking cakey, you may want to apply a little coconut cream to the area first and let it sit there for a few minutes. Brush your teeth or make your bed and come back to it. This is my version of ‘baking the skin’, if you are familiar with the technique. The first place we become dehydrated is around the eyes and when we apply makeup to it, it enhances that dehydration. If you find your concealing HDD is sinking into fine lines, make sure you are using the original coconut which is more mattifying (as long as you are not allergic to coconut) and use the least amount possible. The same goes for the brighteners – the original brightener formula is the most mattifying. You can also mattify with just a touch of bio-foundation.
FACE BRIGHTENING
Something I learned in makeup school that has served me well in my mature makeup application technique are the areas where I brighten the face. In special effects class we learned how to age someone. I realized when starting out as a freelance makeup artist and doing the makeup of the mothers and grandmothers of the bride and groom – “Okay, that class was extremely helpful! I want to do the opposite of what I learned about aging the face.” You want to brighten around the outer corners of the mouth and blending out well diagonally up towards the ears. The same goes for the outer sides and bottom of the nose. then you want to of course brighten around the eyes and eyebrows with special attention to the inner corner of the eye and just under the brow on the brow bone.
EYEBROWS
This is the area I spend the most time on. If you already have semi-permanent makeup on your eyebrows then you can skip this step. Thick, fluffy brows create a more youthful look, no matter what your age. Thin, dark brows can make a young person look much older. The shade is important. The brows, like the hair, are a frame to your picture – your eyes and face. Just doing your brows and nothing else can create a more polished look.
VIRTUAL MAKEOVER
If you are not sure what products would work best for your skin type and in your climate, just send me a message in the message box in the bottom right corner. If you feel confident that you have chosen the right products (or we have already done the colour-matching consultation), but you need a makeup artist’s expertise as far as the placement of colour I can virtually do your makeup using photoshop. I am enjoying this new option I have added and I need practice so please don’t be shy – message me! I have included this video below because whatever products you use, it is a great little tutorial on a natural makeup look that works for all ages.. A virtual makeup is a little more detailed and customized as I take into account the shape of your face and eyes in regards to colour placement. If you are not sure what shade of a product would look best on you, we can experiment together!;)
PS don’t forget nutrition, cleansing, & detoxing
